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Tucson AZ. Guadalajara MX, AZ, United States
Food Critic, Restaurateur, Chef. Owned and operated restaurants in Southern California

Monday, November 29, 2010

Tiramisu

Everybody knows by now that Tiramisu’ means “pick-me-up” in Italian, for the high energetic content (eggs and sugar) and the caffeine of the strong espresso coffee. There are many different stories about the origin of Tiramisu’. It is a layered cake; therefore some people place its origin in Tuscany, where another famous layered Italian dessert is very popular. It is called “Zuppa Inglese” (English Soup). It is not English and it is not a soup. Instead is a simple cake of ladyfingers or sponge cake, soaked in “alkermes” liquor, and alternated layers of chocolate and egg custard.

Layered cakes have been around for a long time. The brilliant idea in Tiramisu’ is not in the technique of layering, but in the components. The great invention of combining together coffee, mascarpone cheese,
savoiardi cookies and chocolate: This is the true innovation in Tiramisu.  I have tried to trace the origins of this desert, I believe it started somewhere in the 80’s. I gave up I decided to eat it and rejoice instead

Tiramisu
Giorgio Celmo
Things You’ll Need
Espresso Maker (steam or pump)
Mixer
Two mixing bowls
Shallow flat bottomed dish,
8x12 or 9x13 Glass/Pyrex 
Small strainer/screen/sifter or salt shaker
Measuring cups & spoons
Spatula

Ingredients:
1 Lb Mascarpone cheese
6 pasteurized eggs ( you can use raw eggs but risk  salmonella )
1/3 Tsp. Vanilla (real stuff)
2 packages savoiardi lady fingers “ Found in Italian shops”
3 Tablespoons sugar
2 shots (2 oz) Cognac or Brandy
12-14 Oz. Espresso “Please use Italian Brand”
4 Tbs. powdered unsweetened cocoa.
2 ½ Oz Bittersweet Choco;ate shavings

Directions

Bring all ingredients to room temperature.
Make the espresso and poor it into shallow flat-bottomed bowl. Add one shot of cognac, one teaspoon cocoa, and bring to room temperature.
At this point you've decided to use coffee instead of espresso, Drink the coffee you made. Then make espresso.  
Separate egg yolks and whites.
In the first mixing bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until creamy white. Add mascarpone, vanilla and 1 shot of cognac and mix until blended.  Leave this mixture in the bowl.
In the second mixing bowl, beat eggs whites until fluffy. If you use pasteurized eggs, this may take a while.
Fold beaten egg whites into mascarpone mixture. Mix only enough to blend. Over mixing will deflate the egg whites.
Dip a savoiardi in the espresso bowl. To get the right amount of espresso on the savoiardi,  lay the finger flat in the bottom of the bowl sugared side UP and immediately pull it out. Place each finger flat in the bottom of the pan sugar side DOWN. The savoiardi will quickly absorb the espresso. If you soak the savoiardi in the espresso you will end up with soggy savoiardi instead of moist savoiardi.
Putting it all Together
Build a layer of dipped savoiardi across the bottom of the pan. If some of the savoiardi do not look 'dark' from the espresso, spoon a few more drops of espresso on the savoiardi. Any espresso left in the bottom of the pan will be absorbed by the savoiardi. Too much espresso will turn the fingers into a soggy mess.
Spoon a layer of egg/mascarpone mixture across the layer of savoiardi. Use about 1/2 of the mascarpone mix. The layer should be about half to  3/8in. thick.
Dip another layer of savoiardi and lay them on the mascarpone mix. Layer them as before, sugar side down. Drip espresso on the savoiardi that don't look dark from the coffee.
Spoon a second layer of egg/mascarpone mixture across the second layer of savoiardi. Use the remaining mascarpone mix. The layer should be about half to. 3/8in. thick.
Use a sift  or a salt shaker Scoop a tablespoon of cocoa into a small sieve or shaker. Hold over the tiramisu and tap on the side with your finger. The cocoa should sprinkle down in an even layer. Use this technique to cover the tiramisu with a very thin layer of cocoa.
Lastly top with shaved chocolate
Keep refrigerated, some recipes call for consuming within 24 hours of making, I have kept this a few days and it has held up well.



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